DAYS 53 – 65 11/06/16–23/06/16 DARWIN

Michael

Long weekend in Darwin, so Brett and Phuong are around for the weekend.
Brett, Phuong and the boys plus Claudia take us into the city bay area to sample some of the Greek food on display at a special Greek festival.   Brett recommends the Greek cakes from the big Greek mamas, so Tony tucks in with a plate of cream horn, vanilla slice and mile fai.  Dot and I share the latter two, which are very nice.  The place is pulsating with Greek & Cypriot music and various dance groups of all ages.  The mass cooking of chicken and lamb for the Souvla stalls is quite spectacular and smokey.  The others head home, so Dot & I stay on for a tasty lunch of Lamb Yiros and some Greek savoury pastries.
Tony and Michael cool off in the swimming pool with Damian & Ray , playing keepings off with a ball.
Friday evening, off to Tim’s Surf and Turf.  everyone else was happy with their meal, but not me, I stupidly chose a seafood platter, way too many chips and calamari, I could only eat half of it.
Tony can’t stand the state of the grounds that he worked on 12 months ago, so he organises a working bee for Sunday morning…..3 trips to the tip with the trailer by Brett of palm tree fronds and trunks.     Will have to rename Tony to Stumpy after his efforts with the chainsaw and the various palm tree stump coppices left standing…....   Tony [AKA Stumpy] moves from the chainsaw (at a very early hour) to the blower then the lawnmower.   Next day back on the lawnmower following pruning overhanging branches and encountering bites from green ants’ nests, then the whipper snipper followed by the ladder to get to the roof and gutters.  The boys and Jen  are coerced into assisting load the trailer for Monday’s final tip trip.
Late Sunday afternoon we head to the Mindil Beach Markets and see sunset on the beach.   It is such a big market, especially with the choice of food on offer.  Claudia takes the opportunity of buying some Australiana type presents (Boomerangs, Aboriginal painting on rocks, crocodile leather bracelet)  for family members in France, as she is heading home in a less than a month.
We catch up with Rob Farrington, Dot’s brother-in-law and his travelling companions.  It is great to see Rob and we spend some time talking to him and bumping into him later in the evening as we stayed on to ensure we had a good look at the market.   Music from electrified didgeridoos provide a haunting sound in the background.   We ate tea on the beach and after sunset returned our chairs to the cars then wandered around for the next hour and half taking in the sights and sounds of this very popular market.
On the way home we pass a cool burn being undertaken in the evening, immediately beside the main highway.    The undergrowth burns so slowly up here, not like it does in Victoria with the forest fuel and undergrowth.   When we arrive home, we see a curlew (bird) on the lawn near our caravan.   They have a splitting shriek, usually at dusk.
Monday, we visit a huge shopping complex at Casuarina, where we have a look around and then have lunch in their food court.   Brett & Phuong are doing their big weekly shop, with Tony & Jen following them.    We took our own car to enable us to go on and do different things in the afternoon.  After lunch we drive into the City and do a self guided tour of the underground tunnels prepared for the protection and storage of fuel from the Japanese bombing raids on Darwin in 1942.  The main tunnel we walk through is about 184 yards in length and has pictorial displays at intervals on the wall.  It is most informative and tells a few truths that were not told to the Australian people after these bombing raids.
It is then a wander down to the swimming beach and wave pool complex where we sit on the grass and enjoy a luscious ice cream each.  We then take the lift to take us up the equivalent of 5 stories to a walkway over the road.   This provides a spectacular view of the Darwin beach area, and saves us walking the flights of stairs back to our parking level behind their Parliament House.
Back home where we catch up with Brett, Phuong and the boys.   Claudia brings over slices of a chocolate brownie cake she has made…..very tasty.
Around 5:00, Michael heads off for a walk with the family, whilst Dot is working on computer repairs and transferring photos.  Michael does not return till near 7:00pm and Dot is thinking should she send out a search party.   We then find out we are not all going out for tea, as previously arranged,  so it is scratch meal of a bacon and egg sandwich, as we are out of stock.
Both Dot and I are covered in red welt bites from mosquitos/midges on the backs of our arms and legs (thigh to ankle) from the other night.  We have tried a number of chemist supplied creams, which supply very short term relief before we are back gouging at ourselves, occasionally drawing blood.  Tony and Jen do not have this problem, as I guess they would not be game to bite Tony.
Today, Tuesday, we went to the caravan repair centre where we will have our shockers replaced as soon as they arrive.  We have tentatively booked in for Friday in the hope that they will be here by then.  While there we asked about our caravan wheel hubs, we have been told they are too small, but the chassis builder is denying this saying that his method is all that is required.  The man we spoke to rang Vehicle Components for us and was told that only 2 chassis builders do the build like our guy and that it is not the best configuration, what a surprise.  He also told us not to be too upset over our caravan since all the manufacturers were alike.
Another day doing much as before, shopping for bits for the caravan.  Since we have been told that our wheel hubs (caravan), which are smaller than the ones required for a land cruiser alloy wheels, will be OK providing the torque is kept up to between 90 and 100 nm, if they get loose, then they may break.  Sooo, Michael and Tony have been off to purchase torque wrenches for the van.  This involved travelling to several shops for the wrench and the appropriate sockets and adapters.  There are always cafes for coffee and cake as well. It seems to me that they guys really enjoy this kind of shopping and always come away with something, Repco, Super Cheap Auto and  Bunnings are male toy shops.  Hehe.
Had a dip in the pool this afternoon and will be meeting up with Rob (brother-in-law) and his travelling companions for tea this evening.  It is still very hot!
Had a lovely catch up with Rob and his travelling companions, the Palmerston Tavern served up  quite a nice meal at a reasonable cost. They had a special on for Oysters, from $1 each, prepared in several different ways.  Rob T bought 12!  Tony and Jen went to Cullen Bay fish and chip shop with their family, but pronounced it over rated, nice but not really special.
We are hearing reports of severe weather on the East Coast of Australia and now…..ICE in Alice Springs!!!!!  So much so apparently the Coles Supermarket roof collapsed.  David rang this morning and told us that the Birdsville track is flooded and the Oodnadatta track is in a bad way (we were planning to return via the Birdsville Track).  We are running out of time anyway, Michael has to be back in Mt Evelyn by 6th July and waiting around for these shockers is chewing up our time.  Looks like we will be going home on the black.
Rob, Rob T and Geoff called around this evening to look at our vans, they all  contributed some useful advice, (some has already been acted upon) if we travelled with them we would learn heaps.
Looking for something to fill in the time – Michael and I drove down to Gunn’s Point today, the road was good until the last km or so when it became very torn up.  Tony had suggested that this might be a spot to bring the caravans, but the current condition of the road precluded this.  There were notices warning that this part of the road was not maintained.  The beach is a wide open beach, very hard sand, so we did what many others had done before us (and were doing)  and drove on the beach for the thrill.
Michael and I went out to see the barra fed at Howard Springs National Park – a really lovely spot with pools for the children, an hour walk through the bush (if you are immune to mozzies) and a large pool with barra (1 metre plus in length), turtles, file snakes and many other varieties of small fish.  It was very interesting, the barra approach the hand held fish and then do a very quick, powerful SNAP to take it in.  The turtles managed to get some and it was funny to see then tussling over a piece of fish.  Then the file snakes came in see what was up.  Of course, the little fish were there all the time.  After that we went to Berry Springs, lovely little notice at the gate telling us that if the Springs carpark was full, the springs were crowded, come back another day!  The springs were lovely, picnicking grounds, bbqs and 3 lovely waterholes for swimming – beware of salties, hehe.  Apparently they try to catch any that come up in the wet season.  there were lots of people swimming, so no one was really worried.  We didn’t take our bathers, but since it looks like being at least Tuesday before the shockers arrive, we may come back.  Tony and Jen went to one of the markets with their family.
Sunday: Michael and I went to the Wetlands Information Centre on the Ahnem Land Road, it was very interesting.  In the evening we went to the Sunset restaurant at the casino.  $35 per head buffet.  excellent food and value, even the soft drink was included.  Afterwards Michael and I head back  to the Mindil market because I saw some shoes I liked last Sunday and have decided to buy them,
Monday.  There is an orchid garden near Brett’s house and M and I went for a look.  Once it would have been astounding, but it is now overgrown and looks neglected.  The rain forest walk was good and it is still well worth a visit.
Tuesday. Had coffee with Paul and Noelene, it was really great to catch up with them again.
Wednesday!  The shockers have arrived and will be fitted tomorrow.  I expect that we will leave straight after that.  Today we went to have coffee for the last time with Claudia (the lovely au pair).  Tony and Michael spent some time removing a tree stump from Brett and Phuong’s garden, there was, of course, an ulterior motive – it will be easier to move the vans closer to the water tap so that we can fill our tanks.  the rest of the day has been spent packing up ready for an early start tomorrow morning and then heading south.

Thursday, and an early arrival at Northern Caravan Repairs, for the Shock Absorbers changeover for both vans.   Chris has been very helpful and informative.   During the changeover, Chris's staff discover that Tony's inside brake pads have slipped due to missing clips.   Ours are inspected and what do you reckon, 3 out of the 4 inside disc brake pads are missing.  We are not allowed to take the vans off-site until new parts are shipped from Brisbane by air.  We are placed in Quest Apartments for hopefully only 1 night, not at our expense!!!

DAY 52 - 10/06/16 - Pussycat Flats, Pine Creek to Howard Springs, Darwin [210 km]

With the recent transition from WA time to Central time, we have noticed a dramatic change from the start of day to end of day.   In WA time we were experiencing sunrise and the bird chorus at between 5:00am and 5:20am and sunset at around 5:20pm.   Now that we are on NT – Central time sunrise is around 6:40am and sunset is not till around 7:00pm.      Somewhat weird for the body clock to adjust to.

Another bright morning with the expectation of being a hot day.  Dot and I are both fed, hooked up and ready to go early.  Tony on the other hand is still in a fog, having not come out of a heavy sleep, as a result of his mistake in taking one of Jen’s nightly tablets last night.    He is still cheeky enough to remind me  to turn right and not left when we hit the highway, following my actions of yesterday.

 

We are on the road around 8:00am encountering a little more traffic than in the past, most of it using the 130 speed limit to zoom past us.

We pull into Adelaide River for a leg stretch and usual cappuccino for Tony.

it is 5 years since we have been to Darwin and there has been a very noticeable expansion of the suburbs before Palmerston.   We arrive at Tony & Jen’s son  and daughter-in-law’s, Brett and  Phuong, home on 2 acres to work out whether we can get the vans past the trees onto the property,  Time to get the chainsaw out and with a bit of pruning we have the vans on site and setup with shade awnings in place.

Tony and Jen’s young grand children, Damian & Raymond, arrive home after being collected from school by their au pair Claudia (from France). They are into the pool for a swim and all over Tony, when he and Michael joins them.

We catch up with Brett and Phuong on their arrival home from work.   Dot has been practising her French with Claudia who comes from Toulouse in France, as we describe our travels to her.

DAY 51 09/06/16 - Timber Creek to Pussycat Flats, Pine Creek [390 km]

Michael

Dot is still waking on WA time, which is beating the dawn chorus and it is still quite dark until close to 7:00am Central Time, whereas daylight in the west circa 5:30am.

We are off around 8:00am, saying goodbye to Neil and Paula, as they head further west.

The initial part of today’s travels takes us through the interesting Victoria River Section…..repeating spectacular red rocky bluffs, valleys.

We have the compulsory cappuccino  and toilet stop at Victoria River, the former for Tony the latter for the rest of us.

Next stop after midday is Katherine for a fuel up of the car, as well as lunch for us all.  We have that at The Coffee Club.

When getting fuel, I got into a bit of a tangle and concerned that there was potential for the van to take the bowser with it on the way out.     Case of having to reverse and going between alternate bowsers to get out……a bit tricky.    Following this went out onto the highway to catch up with Tony and Jen……..only problem I turned left rather than right and was heading south towards Mataranka, rather than North to Darwin.     Tony has been unable to raise us on the CB as by this stage we are 6 km out of town, so he resorts to the telephone to contact us….just as well we still had coverage……..Embarrassingly I turned around and caught up with Tony some 15 minutes later on the other side of Katherine.

We decide to stop at Pine Creek and take-up Neil’s recommendation of staying at Pussycat Flats…..a racecourse and golf course complex.   Fifteen dollars for a non powered site and the complex has a bar along with reasonably priced main meals and sweets.

Tony in rushing to prepare Jen her evening tea, is not only setting off the smoke alarm in the van, but also absentmindedly taking  medication that he got out for Jen…….not sure what reaction it will have on him.

He cuts our after dinner chat short, as he is getting quite drowsy……so off to bed and has a fantastic night’s sleep though he looks and feels somewhat drugged next morning.

On the other hand both Dot and I have a terrible night’s sleep as we are dripping wet in bed from the van being so hot and no breeze.

DAY 50 08/06/16 - Kununurra to Timber Creek [240 km]

Michael

Today, we start week 8 of our travels and head for Timber Creek on the Victoria Highway.   We had hitched up the night before, so are on the road by 7:30am.

It is not a long drive today, as we are meeting up with friends of Tony – Neil & Paula Wood.   They have had a similar make of van for over 2 years.

We arrive and set up under large trees and then get together with Neil and Paula to cover the travelling and warranty issues both us and Tony have had with the vans.   Tony is also having discussions with the van’s sales team re warranty matters for us both.  Time disappears quickly as we sit in the camp kitchen.   Paula introduces Dot to a little 77 year old lady who is travelling around the countryside on a push-bike with a small trailer for her tent and equipment……she is absolutely amazing to be undertaking this in the heat of high 30s.

The afternoon disappears quickly, and Tony takes Jen up to the reception for an afternoon coffee and cake at around 3:25pm [his watch on WA time], only to be told it is 4:55pm [NT Central time].   Jen immediately requests her dinner for 5:00pm.

At 5:00pm in the park, they have two events for the campers , feeding for a number of crocodiles – “freshies”, followed by feeding the circling kites – up to 1o kites…..meat thrown into the air and caught on the wing.

Paula offers Dot a Sauvignon Blanc for a pre-dinner drink, whilst Neil and I have a cooling beer.  The pre dinner drinks stretches on, and when Tony emerges from his dinner and putting Jen to bed, he requests a Number 3 haircut as he has become quite shaggy.   I oblige and then it is his turn to shear me.

Neil and Paula are great company and with the shift to Central Time Dinner is very late and is ice cream and fruit for Dot, whilst a sandwich for Michael.

We both have one of our best uninterrupted sleeps for a long time.

Days 45 – 49 03/06/16 - 07/06/15 Kununurra

DAY 45 – 03/06/16   -                                                                                                                                                        Michael
More warranty discussions by both Tony and Michael with caravan manufacturer and chassis manufacturer.

Follow-up with local service outlets re shocker and fitting availability…..no time till late next week……Michael goes  back to chassis manufacturer to arrange supply of parts to Darwin for fitting there……it is safe to drive as we now will be on tar all the way to Darwin.  Michael gets information on our wheel hubs not being 110mm, but instead a smaller hub using tapered nuts to centralise the load.  These are a standard order by the chassis manufacturer, and he was not aware of the larger tight fitting hubs developed by the suspension supplier for Toyota LC200s with alloy hubs.     Michael advises Tony, who is not happy and this will be taken up with the caravan manufacturer for a changeover.

We decide to book a cruise on the Ord River and Lake Argyle for Saturday, but get a call later to say that this cruise is not running on Saturday.   Whilst in town we go to the Information Centre and book the same day cruise for Monday.  Then it is off to Target for Dot to update her swimming bathers, as the current ones have been perishing and have the potential of falling apart.

After lunch, we lead Tony and Jen for a drive out of Kununurra for coffee and a special chocolate cake……….Tony is following us but insists on turning into the Sandalwood Factory outlet for the coffee and cake.     We  keep going for another 600metres and Tony asks why on the CB radio……we advise that we are on the way to the rum distillery for the special rum and chocolate cake.   He reluctantly follows and is apprehensive given there is alcohol involved.  We convince him that it would be ok and the cake was very nice with real cream on the side.   Dot tries the mango liqueur in a shot glass with ice..Tony and Michael also try and all agree that it was not worth buying.

We head back and call in at the Sandalwood Factory, not long before their closure.  We pass some of their plantations on the way and there are a swarms of lemon/cream butterflies (like our white cabbage moth) coming from the plantations.  One of the ladies at the outlet is very informative telling us that the Indian Sandalwood trees are a parasitic tree relying on a number of different hosts.   She refers us to their theatrette for a video presentation, which is more a marketing exercise to potential investors rather than an information screening about the growing and harvesting of sandalwood.   The shop has a variety of sandalwood products, but we do not have time to peruse, so will come back tomorrow.

Back home and upon dusk there is a great movement of large fruit bats from the nearby trees in the park.  The mossies are also out to get you and we both are having a recurrence of maddening itchy welts on our arms, legs and back.

After dinner, Tony comes to our van where he and Michael prepare a SMS/email to caravan salesman concerning the van hubs that were supplied, despite the specifications for a Toyota LC200 alloy wheel…..we await to see what the response will be.  Whilst Michael is typing on the mini keyboard of Tony’s phone, Dot provides Tony with an overview of the blog (his first sighting) and photos included.

DAY 46 – 04/06/16   -  

Weather continues to be hot hot hot!!!!!

• Zebra Rock Outlet   Unique layered coloured rock in limited supply….lease of narrow strip of land under water for up to 9 months a year.

Pass mango tree plantations  185,000 trees on a 32 hectare plot for one grower……only uses them for value added products consumed in their café.  We have mango smoothie plus wholemeal pancakes with rosella jam.  Dot wants to try the jam as we have seen rosella plants growing at Drysdale River Station and Ellenbrae Station.  Dot was not impressed with the jam, which was tart and did not have any real flavour.

• Cat fish or Silver cobbler when sold in Perth plus turtles fed bread.
• Phone call re our cruise booking being changed

Go to IGA to buy special bread…small loaves made by a German lady – Ute, (we were told about this bread by Noelene at King Edward River)…she also works at Zebra rock café.  We buy a small oat loaf, and the IGA manager learnt from one of his staff that this was Ute’s made bread.  Tony had been in to IGA yesterday looking for the tools section and he is advised by the two cheeky ladies that Kununurra is full of tools!!!!!!

Saturday morning market happening in the White Gum Park, under large gums and fig trees.  The usual types of Stallholders …beaded jewellery, photos, clothing, woodwork products, Argyle diamonds ad a range of food stalls as well as tour booking facilities.   We meander around the market, then we head back to the Sandalwood Factory, for Dot to purchase some items.    We pass a big co-operative selling cheap fuel, which is located in front of a large abattoirs….Cattle trucks (3 trailers/double tiered) are lined up with loads of cattle…..we see many of these cattle trucks over the next few days.

After usual siesta, we decide to visit Mirima National Park…..Tony is busy washing his van and decides to finish it.  The park right on the edge of town, is a very interesting and colourful landscape...it has been described as having sections resembling mini Bungle Bungles.  We do two of the walks along paved or boardwalk paths…..at the end of one walk we see a large yellow snake lying on the surface of a small pond of water at the base of the large rock wall.  Parts of the park are bathed in brilliant sunlight, whilst other section are in complete shade.  On one walk we rise to the top of one section, which gave us impressive 360 degree views.  We thoroughly enjoyed our time spent in this unique park.

Back home and Tony is over the moon about how smick his clean van looks.  I guess he has shamed us into cleaning our van exterior tomorrow.  Tony notices that one of his shocker’s sleeves appears to have dropped, which will be taken up with the Warranty Section on Monday.  Tony has a present for me, a slab of coronas, presented to him by his rear neighbour Peter, a builder, on his return from work today.  I meet Peter and thank him, and he starts telling us about his barramundi successes locally……Tony is suggesting he takes some novices fishing if he has the time.

DAY 47 – 05/06/16   -  

Up early and we are out  before 7:00am cleaning the van, trying to be quiet ……Tony comes and helps and by 8:30am we have the back, front and one side clean.

We have a break from cleaning and walk to nearby Pumphouse Restaurant for a coffee, after changing from drenched clothes ….I think Dot was aiming the hose at  the van so I would get maximum bounceback or run off.……We have already had Ute’s toast breakfast so just have a coffee, but Tony takes the opportunity to have an  “early lunch” of bacon and eggs.  The restaurant is located above the lake and bread in the water brings masses of catfish….some being very large…we spend some time watching the fish.   We walk back to the vans and decide to visit the Ivanhoe Crossing, which has just been recently reopened.  It is a popular spot for fishing as well as 4WD vehicles fording the fast flowing crossing.      Tony heads across and returns and convinces Michael to do the same for photos.   Then it is off to the Ivanhoe Café which we passed on the way out for another coffee, but this time with mango cheesecake for Michael, lemon meringue gateau for Dot and “afternoon tea” of Black Forest cake for Tony (it is only 10.00am by now).   Tony and Jen have been here some years ago, when they were selling melons at 4 for $1.00 at the end of the season.  Very lazy sitting outside in the shade of a large mango tree with our drinks and sweets.

Back to the caravan park and Michael changes into his old clothes and finishes the remaining side of the van.    Most parks will not allow you to wash your vans, but they do here which is a plus, but it makes the surrounding ground quite damp and soggy for a while.

Because of the morning tea we share a pear and a couple of chocolate biscuits for lunch, whilst undertaking further blog and pictures update.

All four of us are dining out tonight at the Country Club Resort…Tony wants a break from his sausages.  The meals at Kelly’s bar & Grill are very tasty….barramundi on a risotto for Michael & Jen, Seafood Risotto for Dot and Steak for Tony. Tony asked for a cappuccino and was thrown when the waitress asked how he wanted it…..skinny milk, and a  whole lot of alternatives……Tony just wanted normal milk from a cow.  We have found a waitress at last from Australia ( Northern Territory)  rather than Holland, Germany, UK, Ireland and Canada,  Kelly’s did not ask us all to sign a plate for display like they did for other celebrities in the movie or television and politicians, who had been there.

DAY 48 – 06/06/16       Happy birthday to our son Paul……so early morning phone call made, before we head off for our 8:00am bus pick up for our cruise tour of Lake Argyle and the Ord river.

The first part of the tour consisted of a 78 km bus ride to Lake Argyle resort, with bus driver and tour host Tracey commenting on the countryside in a humorous manner to her 14 passengers from various Kununurra Caravan Parks.   Our first stop was the Durack Homestead Museum…..the homestead was dismantled prior to flooding of the lake and some years later reconstructed as close as possible to the original.   The numerous gravestones in the yard, especially of young children dying in subsequent months tells you how hard life must have been for these pioneers out trying to survive on their own.

Back on the bus and to have a look at the lake and the popular infinity pool, before boarding another larger bus to take us to our cruise boat, now for 37 passengers, on Lake Argyle.

The lake is huge, the equivalent of 18 Sydney Harbours at the moment, due to a couple of consecutive below average wet seasons.  In the 2011 wet season, overnight the lake rose 1.5metres taking its capacity to something like 43 Sydney Harbours.  This lake is providing hydro electricity to a number of communities and the Argyle Diamond mine, water for agriculture around Kununurra after being distributed by the Diversion Dam at Kununurra, home to a range of fish species, some which are commercially fished, as well as many thousand fresh water crocodiles.

We cruised around the various islands with points of interest highlighted by Tracey…..   some of these included fish feeding to identify various species, male jabiru on nest on rocky island waiting for a mate, peak level markers, birds of prey, pelicans and darters, as well as small rock wallabies.    Lunch time came and the crew moored the boat on a small island and then the highlight of the  tour, where nearly all of the tour group jumped into the lake’s waters with a noodle and either a beer or a glass of wine.  The waters were a wonderful 27 or 28 degrees Celsius…..very comfortable and not what you would expect for such a large vast of water.  Dot was first in and again after lunch was one of the last to leave.  While we were swimming the crew [Tracey, Siobhan & Gary] were preparing lunch……shovelnose catfish or as known by their commercial sale name in WA of “Silver Cobbler” was being cooked on the BBQ, along with numerous salads, cold meats and chicken to choose from.

After lunch and another swim for most, we head back to the Lake Argyle Resort, which from all reports is very busy and turning caravans away.  This Monday was a public holiday in WA, which may account for why it is so busy…..but it could be the volume of grey nomads on the road.     We got back to the shore, hopped into the bus and were transferred to the Ord River below the dam wall to join another Tour group for a 55 klm return trip to Kununurra on the Lake Kununurra Diversion Dam.  Our boat captain and tour guide Grant was fantastic with the information he conveyed to us about the river system, the ecology of the river stopping to point out the salties [crocodiles], the extensive bird life, fruit bats and their importance to the pollination system for the farmers and plants in general.  The scenery was spectacular and photos probably won’t do it justice.  On our return journey we stopped at a riverside camp for tea/coffee, scones and cake.  We saw sunset whilst returning and then were delivered to the banks of the caravan park.

It was a spectacular day, which we both thoroughly enjoyed.    If I had to choose I favoured the return journey on the Ord River and Lake Kununurra, with the wind in our hair and the water beneath us as a very special way to travel through very special scenery, which would be so different and exciting immediately following or during a big wet.

DAY 49 – 07/06/16       Last day in Kununurra area, so we all decide to visit Wyndham, 100 klm away.    Tony suggests we take the 4WD route, so he can cross Ivanhoe Crossing again and check out a couple of falls on the way.   These falls are disappointing as no water coming over the top.

We  encounter a lot of cattle either side of the road, often feeding on small trees as there is not much fodder available.    In one section of  couple of ks, we came across over a 100 kangaroos/wallabies, often in groups of up to 10 or more in the shade or criss-crossing the road in front of us.  This has to be the most that we have seen in such a short area and Tony agrees.

Next stop is Parry’s Lagoon and from a high point it covers a very large area of many hundreds of hectares following the wet season.  It is a paradise for a diverse range of birds.  We drive down and visit one of the bird hides on a platform over a section of water filled with colourful and large water lilies.  Sharp eyed Tony points out a crocodile [salty] some 50+ metres away, plus a pair of whistling kites in the trees opposite.   It takes me and Dot up to 10 minutes to identify their forms in the tree and attempts to photo them with the high zoom focus are not that successful.   Other birds include Brolgas, Darter, Kites and duck varieties.   It is obviously a very popular spot for bird observers, with many species of birds shown on display boards.

From there it is on to nearby Wyndham, and up to the 5 Rivers Lookout well above the town.   It provides a near 360 degree view of 5 major rivers merging before going out to sea.   The view of the waterways, stretching for miles, and the port is spectacular and astonishing.     The large ship in port dwarfs the other boats nearby.  We then drive through the town and to the port area for a drink and cake at Rusty’s Shed.   As we are driving there we receive a telephone call from friends Helen & Ian, who are touring Queensland…it was good to hear from them.    We arrive at the café and Dot has freshly cooked coconut crème caramel, which she says was only all right.

It is then the drive back to Kununurra, this time all on the tar, for shopping of supplies for the next few days of travelling.

Day 44 - 02/06/16 - Ellenbrae Station to Kununurra - 225km

Michael
We are awake as usual to hear the birds chorus at dawn……this time much finer sounds from the much smaller birds around the waterhole.
We are off before 8::00am, with Tony insisting that we go first, as he does not want to have to turn around and come back to us, should we have problems…..usually he would not know as he is that far ahead and outside CB radio range.
The Gibb River Road continues to be in very good condition, an we travel across a range of terrain from sandy soils to ranges made of layers of rock.  Michael carefully picked his way between 2 bustards walking down the road, and on another occasion one in take-off mode on the road.
The views are stunning, especially when we come across the Cockburn Ranges and the Pentecost River.   Everyone told us we would pick up telephone reception as we sight the Pentecost River, and we stop for a photo opportunity along with a number of other camper vehicles.  They are not taking photos, but talking on their phones.    The emails for the last 10 days or so come flooding in.
We then comfortably cross the Pentecost River, which has a base of rounded stones and head for Kununurra.   Once we reach the turn off to El Questro, which most travellers discouraged us going there, we encounter tar for the rest of the drive.   We pull over at a very large overnight camping facility for toilet break, fruit dump and to pump up the car and van’s tyres.
We arrive around midday and setup in the heat.
Grumpy Michael then gets on the phone to talk to the Warranty area of the Van Chassis maker, and then sets about messaging a whole range of photos covering the two separate shocker breakages.  Hopefully answers will be coming in the morning about repairs.
Dot was complaining about the heat in the van and Michael asked why hadn’t she put on the air conditioner….forgot that we were now on a powered site.
On dusk the overhead skies are covered with large bats on the wing.   The caravan park is on the shores of Lake Kununurra and two disabled crocodiles “Freshies”,,,,one with half of bottom jaw missing, the other with a leg missing come up to the bank for a feed.
We all decide to go for a pub meal for tea, and despite Tony wanting to go to the recommended Grande,  once we get there, he says this is the Kimberley so he drives off into town to find another hotel.   We head off to catch up with him, so our meal is at the Kununurra Hotel rather than the Kimberley Grande.   The meals were OK, but Dot’s sav blanc and Michael’s beer were appreciated.

Day 43 - 01/06/16 Drysdale River Station to Ellenbrae Station 135km

Michael
Slow start to the morning as we had to wait for Tony and Jen to appear from Miner’s Pool to fill up with fuel circa 8:30am.  We woke at day break and beat the hordes to the showers….last night there were queues for them.   Time drags when you are waiting and most of the campground had cleared by 8:30am, which was a good thing as Michael did not have too many vehicles overtaking…..very hard on some of the narrower sections and with the amount of dust blocking out visibility.
We have a good run and and catch up with Tony and Jen at the main Gibb Road intersection for a quick break, then onto Ellenbrae and the promise of scones, jam & cream.  After another 75 klm of good dirt road we arrive and book in for the night.    One of the managers – Larissa greets us all in a very friendly manner, shaking your hand and wanting to know your name.
Before we go to set up,  it is time to order the scones and a drink, in their shady covered area.  It is adjacent to a massive Boab tree which fell over earlier this month.  The very large trunk section is still on the ground.  Their information sheet tells us that the property has been owned by members of the Grollo family The scones, jam & cream are enjoyable and upon completion we take our vans to the Ringer campground.   Being early we get the opportunity to pick good sites and the opportunity to put out our awning to dry from a morning or so ago.
The usual rest from the heat after lunch and then off to the swimming water hole to cool down.    The water hole is surrounded by large trees to provide shading, but is a stagnant body of water and quite dark in colour and not as warm as previous swimming places.
Back to the vans, where Tony is providing information to a fellow camper, when he notices the reinstalled shocker on our van is hanging in 2 pieces.  Michael changes into his dirty torn shorts (repaired with gaffa tape) and is under the van removing the broken parts.  We decide to bypass Home Valley Station and Parry’s Lagoon and head straight to Kununurra tomorrow to get telephone connection and see whether repairs can be undertaken there.  Tony’s satellite phone is out to attempt to contact the Kununurra caravan park to bring our booking forward, but he is having interference from the passing clouds and knock off time at the park.   Tony resorts to getting daughter Rhoda in Melbourne to take over and resolve the booking issue at the caravan park, which she does most efficiently,
Tea followed by sitting outside as it is cooler, until the mossies force us inside for our usual early night.   We hear a mixture of dingoes and cattle dogs howling during the night.

Day 42 31/5/16 King Edward River to Drysdale River Station 110km

Easy start today since we don’t have far to go. When we are almost ready to go Tony notices that his maxx tracks have come away from the van and are lying loose on his back bar.  Strangely enough Michael noticed them missing a couple of days ago on the road, but we convinced ourselves that nothing was wrong since Tony had had them moved to the top of his checker plate box.  We hadn’t noticed that he had moved them back  to the rear of the van.
All packed up and a goodbye to Noelene and Paul, they are off to Kullumbaru today, hope they fare well. 
An easyish morning drive and we arrive at Miner’s Pool, Tony suggests that we have a swim then go on to Drysdale River Station where we will stay overnight and have tea. 
After our swim, it’s a lovely little sandy bottom river, Michael and I head off to Drysdale River Station.  Tony and Jennifer will stay at Miner’s Pool, we will meet up at Drysdale next morning.
We have lunch with a nice glass of white for me and a beer for Michael we sit and chat with some Chinese tourists, there is great excitement from one and they head off to a tree in the yard and start taking photographs.  A snake!!!  Unfortunately I don’t have my camera with me so we miss out.  Apparently it has been in the yard for several days now (lady in the store).
Back to the van to try to rest during the high heat, Michael writes the blog, I lie down and listen to a book.  A couple come over and we spend an hour chatting to them about our and their travel experiences, some very useful stuff is discovered this way.
Off to the restaurant for dinner.  I was not greatly impressed by tonight’s menu,no buffet and Lasagne or chicken Tikka to choose from, however if I don’t have to cook it, I’m up for a dinner out.  We have to place our order when we book in, we order the chicken tikka.  The little restaurant was very well run, we had our dinner booked for 6:00, we went over early for a drink.  We were told that we would be served at table 4 and to sit in the beer garden to enjoy our drinks.  Promptly at 6 the girl came over and told us that our dinner was being put on our table.  The chicken was very nice, nicer in fact than I expected.  We followed this with tiramisu for dessert, then back to van for cuppa and tablets.

DAYS 39 - 41 – 28/05/16–30/05/16 KING EDWARD RIVER CAMP [MUNURRU]

DAY 39 - 28/05/16 -  Terry and Janelle attempt to head off are delayed with Tony finding a number of issues to be re-clarified by Terry before he leaves.
Domestic morning – 3 loads of washing, via generator power….chainsaw in action to cut firewood.
Collect 40 litres of water from river and transfer to van tanks
Morning swim at Day Area section ..encounter APT tour group going to Mitchell Falls… talk to some folks from Wales, Hampshire, Geelong and Traralgon.
Lunch
Siesta for next couple of hours  temperature in mid 30s and no breeze
Afternoon swim…very refreshing
Meet caretaker Neil who with his wife is the  Volunteer Camp Host [ May & June].   With Neil back after 4 days off, he controls the allocation of sites to incoming campers.   Tony is complaining that with all the space available at our section and many others, Neil keeps sending them down to our area… and on top of us….destroys the quietness and ambience of our spot.   Who is the first off the mark to go and talk to these new people and guess what,….Tony invites them to our camp location [fire or not] for a chat.   Even Jen, when Tony says lets go for a walk, is asking are you going to talk to people.



DAY 40 - 29/05/16    We are waking with the birds chorus at dawn or pre dawn most days..  The evenings in the van have been so warm, that the sheet/thin blanket is not going on till the early hours of the morning.  Most mornings we awake to a cloudless sky, only to see large white and grey clouds come in late morning and during the afternoon.  However the evening sky is clear giving us a great view of the stars.
Another lazy day…..morning swim….lunch……siesta…too hot!!!
Two new big QLD vans  [ Brian and Dennis]  arrive, mid afternoon, both being towed by big Ford F250 utes – one a stretched unit….They are off to do the Mitchell Falls the next day…..will be interesting to hear how their vehicles cope.  We provide some invaluable information on where we have come across the middle of Australia, via the Gary Junction Road and onto the Telfer Mine Road as one is considering returning that way    ……..(Tony continually refers to it as the Teflon Mine Road ( says because it was slippery) when talking to other interested or non interested travellers about our journeys thus far.) .
Dennis has the same make of van, and tells us about his initial problems and dealing with the Warranty Section.
Tony decides to cook outside, with the usual veggies in foil in the fire.
Post tea, Tony hears reports of a croc being sighted at the river…..so it is on with the flip-flops and getting the “powerful Torch” and military like he marches to the river to confirm the sighting……..red eyes appear in the river , so its back to camp, flip-flopping briskly to report presence of the croc “freshie” , only to find we have gone off to bed.,,,,,,results given through van window
 DAY 41 - 30/05/16    Very heavy dew overnight with lots of condensation on van windows and awning…..river area shrouded in mist.
We awake to the news that overnight Tony and Jen’s van’s batteries have dropped to a level that automatically shuts down to protect themselves……ramifications no lights, fridge motor not working, no pumps therefore no water for toilet/showers etc………..Shade is a blessing during the heat, but a bugger for the solar panels.    Recovery action taken is to run the generator throughout the day to recharge the batteries and re-start the fridge.  The topic of conversation for most of the morning was Michael or Dot…what is your voltage level and what input levels are you getting from the sun? 
Groups of Neighbours head off before 6:30 am to Mitchell Falls.
Morning swim below the campground, followed by Michael further topping up of water tanks and tightening of nuts around bash plates and bull bar.
We all go to the second cultural site nearby there are some skeletons here in a small hollow  one of the rocks. 
Lunch followed by usual do nothing as it is too hot.   Everyone emerges around 2:45pm to head for the river.
We encounter another couple who had a very uncomfortable night at Kalumbaru, after being intimidated to hand over alcohol to three aborigines in their tent, in exchange for a painting.  Police and Elder visit next morning wanting to know who passed on the alcohol to these men.
Late afternoon, Paul & Noelene, return from their couple of days at Mitchell Falls being hosted by fellow rangers.   They arrive with additional firewood for the purpose of a camp oven roast meat and vegetables.   It is very interesting watching the preparation and the cooking on coals outside the fire.  Noelene produces another lovely bottle of Swan Valley red to share, so Michael organises remaining cheese, biscuits and kangaroo/red wine salami for pre dinner nibbles {what are these?]     We have some very dark clouds overhead, but no rain!!!   Paul points out a rainbow in the sky, which is caused by the clouds raining but the rain evaporating before it hits the ground.
Our neighbours start coming in post dusk, absolutely over the state of the road……around 3 hours is the norm for the 76klm, with sore backs and necks from the corrugations and vehicles sliding everywhere.
We sit around talking, with Paul, Noelene and Tony under a cloudless sky.   Tony goes off to inspect the river for a croc sighting….no luck…..Paul & Noelene set up a double swag against their car and adjacent to the fire…….Tony will have to be careful when he steps out of the van in the middle of the night for his nightly pee.
A big lazy day and we are up late, yet in bed before 8:30am…..lying in the heat!!!!!. 

…

DAY 38 – 27/05/16 –TO MITCHELL RIVER FALLS [circa 160klm round trip]

Guest Reporter – Michael Gavin

Tony suggests an early start for our drive into the Mitchell River Falls, in order to beat the tourists and also the heat of the day when walking, so alarms are set for 6:00am.   Tony is up pottering around around 5:15am, waking me and then Dot.   

We pack lunch and water in the backpack and we are off at 6:50am.     The initial 20 – 25klm of the road was continuous corrugations with lots of loose ironstone on top. It was horrible to drive, covering only 15 klm in the first 40 minutes.  At this stage we anticipated that we were going to take up to 4 hours to get there.    The road improved somewhat, but we still encountered rock shelves across the road, as well as floodways with water and steep rises and descents on narrow rocky roads, along with oncoming cars/trucks and passing motorbikes. Tony was no where to be seen or heard on the CB radio as he was in  “rally” mode……he covered the distance in around 1 hour 40 minutes, whereas we and others took between 2 hours 40min to three hours to cover the distance.

We finally arrive and backpack on, we head off on the 7.5klm walk to the Mitchell River Plateau and the Falls plus return. Dot chooses not to return by helicopter – $135.00 for 8 minutes ride, as she does not know what to do while waiting for us walkers.
Initially we are descending into valleys, but then have to climb ridges to the next valley.   Tony takes us to a registered cultural site, for photos of different styles of Aboriginal art. Tony suggests that this area has been “smarted up” since they were here 3 years ago.
Either side of the track, we see a variety of native plants, some of which are in flower, but when we are looking at these Dot and I are generally tripping over the rocks in the path.   It is hot walking in and we have no hope of keeping pace with Tony and Jen.
We stop for a number of rests in the shade and photo opportunity at Mertons Falls as well as water lily ponds nearby.   We finally arrive at the Mitchell River Falls, and just as well because Dot was starting to feel the heat with spots before the eyes and feeling a little wobbly.   I just needed to cool the body core down.  It was immediately strip off and into the water, along with the big APT tour group already in the stream and pools.  It was so refreshing, so we decided to find a pool and sit in it to eat our lunch of boiled eggs and tomato sandwich, whilst watching the little fishes around my legs and feet.
We then head to the waterfall edge to take photos to prove we have been there.

As we leave the Falls area, we meet Terry & Janelle along with ranger Paul & Noelene [ from Middle Lagoon].   Even though we had some cloud cover, the walk back (on the same route) was very tiring and at one stage we took the wrong track despite the track marker poles.  Tony and Jen waited some 25 minutes after completion, before Tony thought it was appropriate to come looking for us.     I do not think the can of Coke and Solo touched the sides on the way down, once we were back at the car.

no time to rest, now it was time to tackle the road home again…..not something to look forward to.    In fact it took us longer as the shadows, not to mention the corrugations, made driving harder……the traction control light on the car was working overtime, and the back was fish-tailing with the worry of side swiping a tree.  At times it was just necessary to stop the car and start again.   We have definitely been spoiled with the state of the Gibb River Road, as it could have been like this.

After 3.00 hours we are home, with Tony home much earlier and having a swim.  Terry and Janelle arrive home not long after us and the welcome beer payment is shared between Terry and myself.

We do not really feel like tea, so Dot has ice-cream and fruit, while I decided on crackers with cheese, salami and the remaining boiled egg from lunch… a little bruised, followed by ice-cream and fruit.  We sit around a small fire with Tony, but I think we are all in bed just after 7:00pm.   A big day but not sure whether the drive and the walk is worth it.
At least we can say we have visited the Mitchell River Falls and the Plateau!!!

DAY 37 – 26/05/16–TO KING EDWARD RIVER [MUNURRU] - 110klm

Guest Reporter: Michael Gavin

Following pack-up of the vans etc.  Michael and Tony decide to freshen up by going for a swim in the nearby Miner’s Pool…. a lovely flowing river with a total sandy bottom….no slippery rocks to negotiate.  We reluctantly leave the water and are on the road before 8:00am.

We travel at our leisurely pace compared to Tony and stop for photos of dingoes and goanna……have to be very careful stopping in the middle of the road, as there is the possibility of another vehicle or tour truck coming out of the dust into our back.    In the case of the goanna photo attempts, it was just as well I had moved off the middle of the road, for a couple of quick vehicles went past.

This section of the road was quite busy with vehicles going in both directions.

We have a good run and arrive at our campsite around 10.30am and initially Tony is a bit sceptical about the sight with the long dry grass in the area.  He drives around and settles on a well cleared area, for which we book in for 3 nights, with possibility to extend if we like the area.  We have fire pits as well as toilets.

Around lunch time Terry and Janelle arrive and straight after his set-up, he comes over to changeover our Grey Anderson plug at no charge despite us insisting….a beer later Terry said would be good payment.   The Tony comes out and starts picking Terry’s brains over a range of issues, despite Janelle wanting to go swimming and to see the Aboriginal rock paintings at a nearby designated cultural site.  Tony mentions his efforts on the resoldering of his caravan camera cable, and immediately Terry is undoing Tony’s work and getting back to basics and in no time has everything resoldered and the camera system is now working.

All six of us head off to the Aboriginal Rock painting site and wander around taking photos.   Then it is off to the Day Visitors Area for a swim in the King Edward River….. a great spot and small waterfall surrounded by some amazing colours in the rocks.  The water is so refreshing for our swim, and provided great photo reflection opportunities.

Back to camp and meatballs and pasta for tea,,,,,bought meatballs not as good as Dot’s homemade ones.

Terry and Janelle, join Tony and us after tea and provide us with a wealth of information about our caravans……given that they had their own business building and serving caravans in Qld.

Day 36 - 25-5-16 From Silent Grove to Miner’s Pool at Drysdale Station. - 273 klm

Another lovely morning and a quick getaway as usual. We are not the earliest however, people are packing up earlier than us and onto the road.
Imintji store closed some time ago and has reopened in the last couple of weeks so we decide to have a look and fuel up (hehe we take every opportunity out here).  There are a couple of people ahead of us waiting for it to open (9:00), by 9:00 there is quite a crowd.  The poor woman in the shop was struggling, when I said “Looks like a lot of people are glad you have reopened”.  She said “Yes but we are still learning, too much too soon”.  The fuel was reasonably priced for out here, $2 per litre, but the groceries (not much as yet) were very expensive.
The scenery today is not quite as varied as yesterday, but still interesting.  There are mobs of cattle and the occasional horse grazing by the side of the road and we cross some very pretty creeks, they would make great campsites if it was possible to get in.
We had planned to overnight at the campsite at the crossroad to Drysdale River Station, but there is now a ‘no camping’ sign there.  Tony and Jen stayed here 3 years ago.  It would have made quite a good overnight place. 
We are chatting to some people about the road to Drysdale River Station and Mitchell Falls, when Terry and Janelle pull up.  They had said that they would be behind us and would keep an eye on us.  How lucky are we to find such generous people.  They have been to Galvan Gorge on the way and tell us that it is gorgeous – oh well another time maybe???  They are heading the same way we are so we go off in convoy.
The road to Drysdale River Station is a bit rougher than the Gibb so travel is a bit slower.  Drysdale River Station camping ground is quite full, especially with motor bike riders and their small tents.   The area surrounding the camping has been undergoing a cool burn, so the air is very smokey.
Michael buys Terry and Janelle a drink…small payment for his efforts of last night……Terry noticed a cable hanging….grey anderson plug broken, courtesy of a rock.  Terry says he will fix tomorrow.  We have to wait till the tavern opens at 4:00pm for our drinks and then we head off to our respective camps, Terry and Janelle are staying at Drysdale, we are going to nearby Miner’s Pool.  We meet up again at King Edward River campground.  Miner’s Pool is quite empty, Tony and Jennifer go down to inspect the pool, Tony is keen to go swimming in it tomorrow morning.

DAY 35 – to BELL GORGE – 24/05/16 - 158klm

We woke after a good night sleep with the blanket on for the first time in a while.  Prompt breakfast and quick pack-up sees us ready well and truly before Tony……. a real first for the trip.  We leave Windjana Gorge (7:45) campground very impressed with the location and the layout,
We travel through some majestic and scenic country today.   As the road cuts through the end of Napier Ranges, there is a section which has a profile of Queen Victoria’s head and it is named as such.
We drive through the King Leopold Ranges which provide stunning views of ranges, valleys and rock escarpments of many colours.  The terrain provides for a leisurely pace, enabling us to enjoy the views.  The road conditions are excellent, which Tony cannot get over.
At one stage we catch up with Tony and Jen…..Tony is out of the car and looking under the car and the van……he apparently had run over a long stick ( arm thickness)  lying on a dry concrete floodway which he then realised was possibly a snake……no sign of the stick or snake  under van/car or either side of the floodway.
We pull into the National Parks – Silent Grove campground, pay our fee and drive in to find a campsite.  As I am putting chocks under the wheels, I notice that we have a mechanical problem with a pair of shockers……..they have been dragging on the ground….the upper bolt has gone and and one of the units the steel shaft has snapped.   We are very fortunate, because another van has just pulled in opposite us and they say hello and ask how we are going.  Terry and Janelle  -  Terry turns out to be a mechanic who works on and builds caravans.   He comes over to check out our  problem, and gets his tools and is under our van, removing the broken unit and reinstalling the good one with a bolt from Michael’s tool kit.  Terry also identifies and fixes issues with two other rear units.
While all this was going on, Tony had his Satellite phone out and calls to the caravan manufacture’s warranty dept, followed by return calls from the company that makes the chassis and suspension …….highly surprised that a shocker would break and require photos when we get to Kununurra to determine course of action to repair issue.   Both lots of advice was that it was OK to continue towing the van.
Michael is somewhat despondent …just another issue to deal with after a day on the dirt, which started out so well!!!!
Whilst Jen is having her afternoon nap, Michael and I are talking to the local ranger, about the snake we saw at Windjana Gorge.  He tells us there is an olive python curled up under a trailer near the machinery shed for the past day or two. He offers to show it to us, so I go and see if Tony wants to come to.  The ranger removes the trailer to enable a good view and photos…..all curled up, but estimated length of 3 metres.
Back to the van and get ready to drive the 10klm to Bell Gorge carpark.  The 0.75klm walk in was difficult as for much of the time you are walking on loose rocks.   Once there, the views of the waterfall were stunning, and we made our way to the pools on our level and found a spot to just sit and feel the flowing water give you a massage.  It was very refreshing after the warm walk in to the gorge.   Tony’s sharp eye-sight identifies a thin water lizard or goanna sunning itself on a rock in the water, some 7 metres away. 
We are the last to leave the Gorge and walk back to the carpark and then to the van for tea, which Michael cooked on the BBQ.   Tony, Michael and I sit around outside in the dark, as it is cooler outside than in the van, going over day’s events and results.

DAY 34 - TUNNEL CREEK – 23/05/16

We are up early in readiness for our visit to Tunnel Creek, with Tony’s agreed leaving time of between 8:00 – 8:30am as we are in no hurry.  At 6:50am we have a knock on the van door…it is Tony …..are you ready to go??    Just as well that we know Tony by now and have our day pack ready and have had our breakfast.  It is much cooler this morning and walking early is ideal.
It is a comfortable easy drive, which takes about 45 minutes for the 30 klm drive.  There is only one car in the Tunnel Creek car park.  it was ideal timing, as when we returned to the carpark after our walk, there  were 3 large 4WD Tourist Buses, as well as numerous smaller tour operators and individual groups.
Tunnel Creek is part of a 350 million year old Devonian period reef rising above the plains.  Tunnel Creek is actually a 750 metre cave running through the Napier Range.  Tony and Jennifer have been here before and Tony is embellishing the adventure ahead….many fresh water crocs, waist deep water and very dark and slippery rocks.
The entrance to the cave is tricky and narrow, needing to clamber over and between large rocks, and then once in the mouth of the cave a torch is essential along with solid walking shoes as at times we are walking through running water.  The water depth ranges from ankle to just above the knee.  The cave ceiling in places has large stalactites and shawls and midway where there has been a roof collapse feeder root system are through the roof down into the cave’s sandy floor.  We get to the end and sit and have a drink, then turn-around and head back to the entrance.
During our walk, Tony only sees one croc’s set of red eyes but as we pass on coming visitors Tony warns them of the “many big crocs” they will need to walk around in the water. I try to contradict him, but he shouts me down….some see he is joking, but others are quite apprehensive!!!
By the time we return to the narrow entrance there is a queue with up to 3 large tour groups coming in.
In the car-park, a couple of local aborigines are selling carved Baob nuts.   Tony goes over and lets them know we met an aborigine named Roy in Derby, who does nut carving.   The lass says that Roy is her brother.
As we head back in the car, 4 large Bustards {Bush Turkeys] fly across the road in the car.   Michael turns the car around to take photos, but they have moved off too far for good sharp shots.
On arrival back at Windjana Gorge, Tony is explaining to Michael, as they head to the only 2 WCs in our section, about a large snake that he saw crossing the road.  He turned the car around to go back and photo.    He was indicating the snake’s size and length of about 6+ feet, outside the toilet, which was occupied by a woman……she was having kittens thinking the snake was directly outside the toilet….and she finally yelled out “where is the snake???”  Tony set here at ease wit the fact that the snake was not outside the toilet.
After lunch back at Windjana Gorge, we go for a walk on a track through the tall grass in front of the range…..we are keeping a close eye on the track and the edges, whilst trying to ensure the millions of ants were not crawling on our feet or legs.   Following Michael, at one stage I spy to my left on top of the grass a yellowish thin snake up to 5 feet long.  Michael hadn’t seen it and when he stepped back to look the snake, slithered off very quickly.  A ranger later that evening indicated it could have been a mulla mulla or a gwardei. 
Not very far up the track we heard noises in the hip high grass……it turned out to be a reddish-brown wallaby that we had disturbed.  We finished our walk by re-entering the gorge and strolling by the water’s edge……no crocs to be seen.
Back to the campground and we catch up with Dale and Janelle.     Michael and Tony met Dale in the Derby Caravan Park.  The afternoon has been reasonably cool and we actually need to put jumpers on before the evening is upon us…..this will be good for sleeping tonight.

Day 33. Derby to Windjana Gorge 22-5-16

Another early start.  During pack-up, we ring our grandson Jarvis to wish happy birthday for turning 6.  He is at the football watching his older brother co-captain his Under 8 side.
Tony has remembered that we need lots of $10 for National Parks.  We don’t have any.  Off to a local café for a coffee before we head off, where we frighten them with $100 notes and ask for change in $10 notes, of course they can’t oblige, but we think we will be OK.
We leave Derby on the Gibb River Road, the initial part being tarred, much to Tony’s disappointment, as it only encourages the ordinary tourists.   We travel through a range of country, much of it being pastoral country, with a variety of ant/termite mounds/columns.  There are sections of bitumen then dirt and finally reach just dirt, so it is time to drop the tyre pressure…this takes a bit of time for the 8 tyres.
Arrive at Windjana, after a comfortable 2 – 2.5 hour drive and decide to stay 2 nights in a clean National Park facility.
We walked through the gorge this afternoon.  It is stunning, we like it very much.  Quite a few fresh water crocs, a bower bird has built his bower close to the path and is trying to attract a female, he is making the most incredible noises, hisses, growls, cackles etc, she doesn’t seem too interested.
On the walls of the gorge in one section are fossilised remains of sea creatures. Parts of the gorge have sandy beaches with trees growing on the banks with the orange and black walls of the gorge as a backdrop. We didn’t walk the entire gorge, apparently the last km is closed, we met some people who had just gone as far as was feasible and reported it overgrown and mosquito ridden.  That was enough for us, Jen, Michael and I have been bitten a lot and the bites come up in large red lumps we will have to be more stringent with our personal insect sprays.  Tony, of course, seems immune.
It is very humid and we have come back dripping in perspiration, but—there are hot showers here in the campground so it is easy to freshen up.
It is threatening rain this afternoon and we plan to go to Tunnel Gorge tomorrow, so we hope it holds off.
Tony says we will go to Tunnel Gorge about  8:00 to 8:30 in the morning.
It was a very hot night in the van, so sleeping was very difficult, especially when bedtime is between 7:30 and 8:00pm.